Paws, passports and possibility: Travelling Europe with my Guide Dog, Jessie

Dr Kim Lewis and Jessie

Life is more fun with my Guide Dog, Jessie! So, when my husband, Allan, and I planned a visit to Rome followed by a Western European cruise, there was never any question about whether Jessie would come with us. It was always Jessie, or not at all.

We were advised to complete all South African paperwork first, which gave us peace of mind that Jessie would not need to go into quarantine on our return home. By understanding the requirements, working within their limits, and corresponding with the incredibly helpful state veterinarian at the Department of Agriculture, we were able to obtain all the necessary permits and dispensations for re-entry. This meant that most of the documentation, rabies titres, vaccination and sterilisation records, and more, were already in place when applying for the UK transit visa and European travel papers.

British Airways work with a non-profit organisation to manage service animal travel. I emailed all of Jessie’s paperwork and was issued a reference number. From then on, whenever we flew with British Airways, we simply quoted Jessie’s number, and all authorisations were seamlessly integrated into our booking. On economy flights, we are even automatically issued a second seat in her name.

For this trip, we chose to fly premium economy, allowing Jessie extra space and comfort. It was a night flight, and the only adjustment we made to her routine was skipping her evening meal. We were seated at the bulkhead, where Jessie curled up on her blanket and slept for most of the flight. When she was awake, she enjoyed walking up and down the aisles with us and received an abundance of love and attention from the flight crew. On our return flight, she was even treated to three sausages for breakfast!

We travelled through Heathrow Airport in London and Fiumicino Airport in Rome, both of which are well equipped for service animals. At Heathrow, animal control met us at the aircraft, escorted us to designated relieving areas, and then guided us to our connecting gate. The British animal control staff were wonderful, clearly animal lovers who treated us with kindness and respect, making the entire process effortless.

In Rome, we stayed at a hotel near the Vatican and had booked a room with a terrace so Jessie could enjoy some outdoor space. The hotel staff were friendly and accommodating and had even accepted delivery of Jessie’s food, which we had ordered online ahead of time. About 150 metres from the hotel was a small plaza with a patch of grass and weeds — much to Jessie’s relief.

The hotel opened directly onto a lively pedestrian street filled with cafés, restaurants, gelato shops and souvenir stalls. Tables and chairs were placed into what would normally be the road, making the area easy for Jessie and me to navigate without worrying about traffic. Jessie, however, was slightly confused.  Her training had taught her to walk on pavements, not roads, so that is exactly what we did. She was clearly bemused when we stopped to sit at a table and enjoy Italian cuisine in the middle of the street!

As it was a Jubilee year in Rome, all volunteers had received accessibility training, which made entering basilicas and tourist attractions with a Guide Dog straightforward. On the rare occasions where security staff hesitated, volunteers quickly stepped in, explained that Jessie was a service dog, and escorted us to the front of the queue. One highlight was a golf cart tour of the city. Jessie lay comfortably beneath the seat as we whizzed past the Colosseum, Roman Forum, basilicas and Circus Maximus, before stopping at the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps. Along the way, our guide shared stories of Rome’s ancient and modern history — a fascinating blend that left me wanting more. A week was not nearly long enough in the Eternal City, but it was enough to promise a return.

Allan, Jessie and I have enjoyed many local cruises over the years, and I especially love being at sea — feeling the ship move beneath me and spending time on the balcony, breathing in the salty air and listening to the ocean and seagulls. Soon it was time to say goodbye to Rome and board the MSC Splendida. We chose the Yacht Club experience, a ‘ship within a ship’, which gave us a calm space to retreat to after the busier areas of the vessel.

Jessie’s relieving area was set up on our balcony, complete with artificial grass (much to her dismay). It worked well, though, as we simply opened the balcony door each morning. There was still plenty of space for two chairs and a small table where we could enjoy breakfast and coffee while taking in the sea views. I was slightly disappointed by how calm the Mediterranean was in September. The largest waves, which caused some American passengers distress, were barely 15 centimetres high (more like a lake than a sea), especially compared to my Atlantic experiences.

Jessie quickly became a favourite among the cruise staff, many of whom missed their own pets back home. She soaked up the attention and enjoyed her celebrity status. Our first stop was Marseille, followed by a visit to the markets of Aix-en-Provence. The fresh fruit, vegetables and herbs were irresistible, and although Guide Dogs seemed unusual in the area, and we were met with some hesitation, it was only a short visit. The scent of lavender will forever remind me of that charming town.

We later disembarked in Tarragona, Spain, where we visited a historic yet still active Cistercian monastery. Built from golden, buttery stone quarried locally, it stood in striking contrast to the usual grey structures found elsewhere. Florence was the highlight of the cruise for me. I fell in love with the city 30 years ago, and this visit only deepened that love. We travelled by bus from the ship, then arranged our own golf cart tour, racing through the city with an engaging guide before returning to a bus full of exhausted passengers who had explored on foot.

Some days we stayed on board and didn’t disembark at all. After the intensity of Rome, we were grateful for the ship’s gentle rhythm, which allowed us to rest and recharge — especially Jessie. At eight years old, she is middle-aged like me and needed some downtime.

Travelling with Jessie was a wonderful experience and we created memories that will be treasured forever.  We are already looking forward to our next overseas adventure together!